1981 Vette Flare Install

McSpeed

So, you are ready to add that PHAT Killer Vette look to your late model C3 so you can stuff some HUGE on LARGE 12" wide rims in the rear?  Follow along for the step by step.

Tools Needed:

-bubble level

-sharpie

-saws-all with wood/fiberglass TPI blade

-long and short reach 3/16" rivets and gun

-3/16" drill

-small zip/self starting screws

-cordless drill

-grinder with 36-60 grit disc

-Dyna Glass, long strand style body filler, or Vette style panel adhesive

-Fiberglass resin and mat

-17" long 36, 80, 180 sand paper and 17" hand board or air file

-Standard body filler

-Putty coat final filler

-finishing 320/400 wet dry paper

-primer of choice

PARTS:

-1 set of ACI brand L88 flares

Step 1: Fit the flare to the car.  Move it around and compare right to left.  I suggest installing both rear at one time to keep the symmetry as close as possible.  Level the car right to left then put the level in the wheel well.  Fit the level to the highest point of the stock fender and lower the flare until it is on the same horizontal opening as the stock wheel lip.  Mark the fender.  Pull the flare off and drill 3/16" holes in the rivet dimples.  Use a zip screw to reattach the flare to the car and zip screw to the car while you play with the fit. 

Step 2: Scribe a line along the outside of the flare to fender.  Remove the flare then drop 1" below that line with a new line.  This is your CUT line.  You are approaching the point of no return.

Step 3:  POINT OF NO RETURN.  Cut along the lower scribed line.

Step 4:  Take a moment to pose with your now removed stock fender lip.  Notice the nervous smile on the face of the owner of this 81.

Step 5:  Drill through the zip screw holes in the car with the 3/16" bit.  Test fit the fender with the rivets in place making sure to use long and short reach where they will work best.  Usually you need long reach towards the door edge.  Remove the fender and grind the back edge of the flare and mating surface of the car.  Rough up the outer edge of the flare as well to provide a strong adhesion with the filler.  Clearly mark where the rivets holes are with a line for quick location when you are bonding it on.

Step 6:  Cover the brake caliper and put down a large piece of clean cardboard on the ground.  Mix your long strand filler or panel adhesive with a balance of harder that will give you ample time to work, and kick off in a reasonable amount of time.  Spread it on the car and on the flare.  Get some gloves and a friend to help.  Press the flare on and quickly locate the rivet holes.  Fasten the rivets and spread the mix tight into any space between the car and flare.  On the underside you will want to smear it up tight and smooth for a factory smooth finish between flare and car.

Step 7:  Grind the excess filler and remove all high spots.  Cut 1.5" x 3" fiberglass mat strips and fiberglass those over the gap between the flare and body of the car.  This will provide a skirt bed that will prevent cracks from coming through in the future.  Now, mix you standard body filler and begin the process of filling and sanding smooth.  Pull filler over a broad area and work down in even cross strokes.  You can use a 2" PVC pipe with your 17" paper for a contour sand.  This is textbook paint and body techniques from this point forward.

Step 8:  Repeat the process on the front of the car.  You will scribe the lower line at 3/4" off the upper flare line for the cut point on the front flares.  You will cut the flare off where it meets the front bumper.  You will then blend a small triangle of the cut part of the flare into the front bumper edge.  This car has fiberglass replacement bumpers that make blending in a snap.  You can also stretch your factory rubber bumper out on the edge to meet the flare then blend. 

At this point you will begin to fill and sand to contour the flare to the body.  You want to pull the filler across the flare then sand it using the 2" diameter PVC pipe in a variety of angles to constantly work down the high spots.  In essence you are sanding away everything that does NOT look like a Billy Bad Butt flared Vette.  Simple as that.  After the heavy filler you will step back to putty coat for pin holes and small low spots as you finish it out.

Step 9:  After blocking, filling, blocking, and filling the flare to the car you will want to block the whole car down and apply a couple of heavy coats of primer.  Next you will block that down a bit more before going to primer again and a guide coat. 

Now off to the paint shop, and to the Visa card to do some major damage with a new set of Intro Pentia rims 18x9.5 front on a 4.5" bs and 18x12 rear on a 5" bs.  Tires are Michilen Pilot Sports 275 35 18 rear 335 30 18 front.

Oops!  This is what happens when the left rear wheel comes off while driving down the road.  CHECK YOUR LUG NUTS!  We have spared you the gory pictures immediately after the wheel to fender at 15 mph collision.  Instead here is a shot of the re-bonded panel.  The tire wedged between the body and the car for a split second tearing the fender loose from the inner structure and fracturing it from the b-pillar across the flare and back into the upper quarter and rear bumper panel.  There were even stress cracks between the right quarter and rear bumper.  We are letting the sun help cure out the resin in the filler and will re-block for shrinkage before going back to paint.

06/28/05